Unmarked graves, floodwalls, shrimp and sugar cane

On my way to New Orleans I glanced over the side of a bridge crossing the Atchafalaya River and spied, below, what was obviously an old 19th century town on the riverbank. It was Morgan City, a town that sugar cane built and shrimping sustains.

Two bridges sit side by side at Morgan City. Both are still used, although the arched one is only two lanes wide and used mostly by local traffic to cross the river to Berwick. Some of those small dark items in the river are benches for visitors to sit on and enjoy the sights–now submerged.

Driving around this small city for a little while I realized it was a more viable small town than one of the antique shop/tourist destination type of towns. Near the center I discovered a large oak tree shaded town square/park and while taking photos I fell into a conversation with a Life-Long Resident whose home faces the park.

Both city park and unmarked cemetery

Here is some of what he told me:

During a Yellow Fever epidemic back in the early 20th century, there was not enough room in the town cemetery for everyone who died so hundreds–many of them children– were buried in Lawrence Park. There is no marker to memorialize this tragedy.

These days Lawrence Park is a happier center of activity, including what are called the “Porch Concerts”. Local bands play from the porches of homes around the park in a free concert series. The audience sits in the park. I later noticed that the city also sponsors a series of public dances down on Front Street during Spring to encourage support of local businesses.

Mr. Life-Long Resident also told me where the oldest home in town was located. As you can see in this slide show, this yellow house is surprisingly small and still being used as a residence. Nearby are a historic Episcopalian church and two much grander homes built by sugar cane barons. On the other side of the railroad tracks are much, much smaller old homes. But overall, Morgan City seems to be home to middle-class families whose livelihood depends on the large shrimping fleet.

The Mississippi at flood stage

Once the center of the Morgan City economy, Front Street is now a patchwork of still thriving businesses and empty storefronts. Originally it faced right onto the river bank. Not now. Were it not for the massive flood wall Morgan City would have been swept away downstream on the river.

Now, a massive floodwall holds the river back. When I was there the river was above flood stage–but not overtopping the floodwall. Since then over 12 inches of rain fell in one day and all the rivers and bayous in this area surged above bayou banks and floodwalls. Even before the 12 inches of rain fell the river water was seeping under the gate.

Sugar and sweets

And then there are the sugar cane fields that extend for miles and miles around Morgan City. When I first saw them I thought they were fields of green onions. Mr. LLR cleared that up. Within a couple of months these plants will be 10 to 12 feet tall.

And finally…why visit the land of sugar without stopping at a little shop called Sweet and Simple on the corner across from Lawrence Park? Great root beer float!

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