I am now seeing New Orleans under the influence of three books set in the revolutionary Eighteenth Century: An Interview with a Vampire, The Vampire Lestat, and the brand new Swedish novel, The Wolf and the Watchman. (The latter is brilliantly written, but too brutal, no doubt, for some readers. Interestingly, it is free on Kindle Unlimited.)
Faces straight out of a 18th Century novel
Faces from the 1790s are everywhere in New Orleans. People wearing the strong, distinctive faces of their distant ancestors, not the homogenized 21st Century “American” face. And in groups of people, I see novels-in-waiting. What is the story behind that person? Why are they here? Many of the men I saw in Jackson Square outside the St. Louis Cathedral yesterday would probably not even have to change clothing. The women, however, were too confident, too loud, and utterly inappropriately dressed for any place but a New Orleans red light district back then.
It was while watching these men that I realized the whole scene could be set in another era simply by editing out
a few 20th Century items. Oh, the man in black and a couple of others were band members watching another combo play.
These two are the musicians being watched by the band members in the photo above. The drummer was a Brazilian. The instrument the other man is holding is a Kora from West Africa. The music was original and amazing!
I like the Church Quiet Zone sign which was being totally ignored by everyone. The Roman Catholic church does not have the power it once did.
Once in a lifetime singing gig in New Orleans
Here they are the women who would need a total re-do to become part of a novel set in the 1790s. The blonde in black tights was an audience member who wanted to sing so the musician with the guitar let her do it. She was okay, but probably shouldn’t give up her day job. No doubt, this gig will be part of her tale of visiting New Orleans for years to come.
There were six psychics ready to tell fortunes in Jackson Square. I suspect the city government maintains a limit on the number of vendors, psychics, artists and musicians allowed in front of the Cathedral and around the Square. But, then again, maybe not.
I think these men were selling adaptations of the Indian regalia worn by Second Line dancers during Mardi Gras. A Second Line is a group of people who are dancers in all the parades leading up to Mardi Gras, like the fun and enthusiastic Pussy Footers. The First Line are musicians who march in the street.
Gumbo in the French Quarter
I’ve abandoned my search for the best gumbo. This bowl served at the Gumbo Shop on St. Peter street had won “best gumbo in New Orleans” for 20 years in a row…and it was not very good at all. Mostly brown gravy with small shrimp and almost no okra. If I want Gumbo I’ll go back to the vegetarian version served at Meals from the Heart cafe in the French Market. Or more likely, I’ll try out the French bakeries around town that serve up delicious-ness all day long.
I love the layers and reflections in this image which I shot from the inner courtyard of the Gumbo Shop, but all the visual layers won’t make up for disappointing gumbo.
These two budding musicians were really tearing it up but were located at the foot of the stairs down to the French Quarter. I’ll bet they were unauthorized by the city.
Stairs leading down to the French Quarter which is below sea level. As of this morning (May 29, 2019) the river had not quite reached flood stage, but there were 44 minor leaks in the levee system around the city. The levee system has been greatly improved and in some places rebuilt since Katrina Hurricane.
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